The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability and the Environment
Nonwoven materials are becoming more popular across multiple industries due to their lightness and ability to protect against microorganisms. However, concerns regarding their sustainability are beginning to emerge owing to their disposable nature and potential for environmental pollution. The 2020 pandemic gave a huge stimulus for the nonwoven industry, with a surge global demand for sterilized consumer goods in hygiene, medical, and personal care. At the same time, the pandemic demand also exacerbated and highlighted the problems of waste and environmental pollution associated with this multipurpose material.
The world generated trillions of discarded masks and gloves with virtually no recycling solution. We now continue to repair personal protection equipment (PPE) and disposable mask challenges years after the pandemic. According to Cornell News, one hospital with 300 medical personnel could generate more than a ton of medical garb waste daily. That translates to more than 400 tons of annual medical PPE waste in a single COVID-handling facility, which is about six times the pre-COVID levels.
According to Science Direct, an astounding 129 billion face masks and 65 billion plastic gloves were manufactured and disposed globally every month during the COVID-19 outbreak. Although nonwovens’
disposable nature is essential to preventing infections, many now want to see the mounting problem of waste replaced with biodegradable alternatives. A small but growing sub-segment of woven goods are made from renewable, organic fibres, creating a great scope for a biodegradable nonwoven industry.
Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs) Drive Recycling in South Africa
The World Economic Forum suggests that recycling and the circular economy is a billion-dollar opportunity for Africa, pointing out that the circular economy offers a promising opportunity for economic development, value creation, and skills development for the region. Indeed, in some countries in the region, there is already evidence that plastic waste recycling and recycled garments already exist, as well as vibrant circular economy business opportunities on the African continent.
In the plastic recycling sector in South Africa, there are PROs (Producer Responsibility Organizations) focused on dealing with everything plastic and its recycling. They coordinate the industry efforts on behalf of plastic manufacturers, packaging companies, the relevant government departments, municipalities, retailers, waste pickers and recycling companies. They collect, manage, and invest in the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) proceeds and funding.
EPR is a global legislation policy approach that makes producers responsible for their products throughout their entire lifecycle, including at the post-consumer stage. In a nutshell, a brand owner must demonstrate to the responsible local authority how to minimize the environmental damage caused by their brand. Therefore the brand owner must show their plan to collect their brand packaging long after the consumer has used the product. Adding recycled content to the packaging is one of the ways of minimizing damage to the environment.
In South Africa there are several PROs. PETCO is one of them, trusted by its members and the collection and recycling industry to drive change across the packaging value chain. While initially PETCO was focused on PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) plastics, the most common thermoplastic polymer resin of the polyester family and is used in fibres for clothing, containers for liquids and foods, and thermoforming for manufacturing, now PETCO’s responsibility also includes caps (the majority of which are made from polypropylene), labels and Liquid Board Packaging (Tetrapak). PETCO also manages EPR schemes and is opening its presence in countries like Kenya and other key African countries.
In South Africa, some of the key players in the plastics manufacturing and packaging sector are Darunfa, Alpla and Extrupet. Darunfa Chemical Fibre is a leading regenerated polyester fiber manufacturer established in 2012. The company assists with PET recycling across South Africa and converts this recycled waste into a high-quality polyester fiber for three deniers and larger fills.
Alpla is an Austrian packaging company that has bought an existing South African packaging company that had businesses in 20 African countries including the Indian Ocean Islands in 2017. It was the most significant investment in the company’s history. In 2020 they built one mega factory in Johannesburg that replaced the 9 factories scattered across South Africa. In 2024, Alpla commissioned their 35,000T p.a. PET bottle-to-bottle plastic recycling plant in Durban for 60 million euros.
Extrupet has a 60,000 tons p.a. recycling capacity and is a world-class plastic recycling company whose rPET is certified by global bodies. Established in 2000, Extrupet has become one of the largest and most advanced recyclers of PET bottle materials on the African continent, specializing in reclaiming and converting waste PET bottles into various grades of PET flakes and chips.
Further afield on the continent, Mr. Green Africa is one of the most prominent recyclers in Kenya. It is primarily focused on three types of plastics, ensuring high-quality sorting and processing. Mr. Green integrates informal waste pickers into its supply chain, contributing to social equity and economic development. Mr. Green has recently upgraded its recycling capacity to 70,000T p.a.
Another very active PRO in South Africa is Polyco whose key role aims to grow the collection and recycling of all plastic packaging in South Africa and to promote the responsible use and reuse of this plastic packaging. South African Plastics Recycling Organisation (SAPRO) represents the plastics re-processors in South Africa. Members procure sorted, baled end-of-life plastics and re-process it into new plastic products.
South Africa is amongst the top recycling countries in the world. Ahead of Europe at 46% versus 31%, according to Plastic SA. The Southern African Vinyls Association (SAVA) is the voluntary industry association representing the entire PVC industry value chain. SAVA strives to grow the industry and protect its stature by communicating the latest, scientifically based, and researched information in the sub-Saharan region.
What could be interesting is to compare bodies that manage EPR programs and funding in South Africa to the United States of America. In the U.S., the National Caucus of Environmental Legislators (NCEL) is one such organization. According to their website, the goal of the NCEL is to empower a nonpartisan network of state legislative champions. Created by and for state legislators, NCEL is a resource for lawmakers working to protect, conserve, and improve the natural and human environment. State lawmakers are advancing bills to make plastic producers more responsible for the waste they create through EPR programs. EPR has been gaining traction as a promising waste management and reduction approach, with California, Colorado, Maine, and Oregon enacting EPR programs for plastic waste in recent years. Building on legislation from these states, at least 11 other states have introduced 24 policies in 2024 to help improve their waste systems by establishing their own EPR for packaging programs.
At least 11 states in the U.S. have introduced legislation in 2024 to advance EPR for packaging programs. Minnesota, New York, Tennessee have established new EPR programs. Other states considering legislation establishing new EPR programs in 2024 include Illinois, North Carolina, Rhode Island, and New Hampshire. Hawaii and Massachusetts are planning and studying EPR approaches.
South Africa’s Nonwovens Recycling Capability
Over the years, Africa has actually built an interesting nonwovens recycling capability. Interesting examples are a company called Brits Nonwovens which prides itself in turning trash into treasure by transforming 100-150T of discarded textile products into valuable materials such as Isotherm, which is a thermal insulation product made from 100% thermally bonded polyester derived from recycled PET bottles. Applications of Isotherm include its use in roofs, walls, and geysers, providing effective insulation that helps reduce energy costs. Other applications include automotive, construction, apparel and textiles. In terms of upcycling and sustainability, Brits Nonwovens emphasizes a commitment to sustainability by ensuring that all its finished nonwoven products are 100% recyclable. They also implement an environmental management policy that includes measures for waste minimization and pollution prevention.
Other examples of companies that recycle nonwovens in South Africa are Tufflex Plastic Products and Koogan Plastics. Tufflex specializes in recycling both post-consumer and post-industrial polyolefin waste and operates one of the most sophisticated plastic wash-plants on the African continent. The Company has also developed a unique drying and processing line to convert hard to recycle waste polyolefin powders back into usable pellets. Tufflex also processes flexible PP from the manufacturing of diapers and sanitary pads. Koogan Plastics, which has existed for more than 30 years, and other recycling capabilities, also recycles flexible PP from the diaper manufacturing process.
The nonwovens industry in Africa presents a significant recycling opportunity for flexible PP from AHP convertors in Africa. There are more than 120 AHP lines convertors in SSA alone, and even more in North Africa. Using flexible polypropylene in the diaper manufacturing process provides significant technical advantages such as low MFI (melt flow index), enhanced flexibility, impact resistance, chemical stability, lightweight properties and customization potential, and improved processability.
Most of Africa’s recycling sector is informal. In places, they are making strides toward formalizing the sector. The African Reclaimers Organisation (ARO) has taken this task very seriously in South Africa. Over the last decade, they have started working with and protecting the rights of informal waste pickers, or ‘reclaimers,’ who play a central role in South Africa’s waste economy. According to Future Earth, reclaimers in South Africa collect 80-90 percent of recycled used packaging and paper, which are key in achieving South Africa’s 57 percent overall recycling rate.
According to Socio-economic Rights Institute of South Africa, reclaimers save municipalities an estimated R780 million to R750 million ($45M) annually in landfill airspace costs alone. ARO is a membership-based democratic organization of reclaimers working in residential areas and landfills. With a membership of over 5,500 reclaimers in and around the City of Johannesburg, they sort, collect and sell recyclable materials. Each reclaimer diverts approximately 16 to 24 tonnes of recyclable materials annually from landfills.
Africa also has interesting garment and textile waste management initiatives. According to Fibre to Fashion, an organization with a presence in Nigeria and Kenya called Africa Collect Textiles has collected 197,981 kilograms of textile waste and saved 1,200 tons of carbon dioxide from the environment. Municipalities and legislators are also doing their part. In 2024, Nigeria’s Lagos Waste Management Authority (LAWMA) announced plans to ban textile waste from all landfills in the state within three months.
A few champions are beginning to emerge in the textile waste management space. According to an article in Holistic Approach to the Environment, the industry estimates the textile recycling industry has the capacity to divert about two million tons of post-consumer textile waste each year. The phenomenon of fast fashion leads to high volume of textile and garment waste. Textile waste presents opportunities for establishing large-scale regeneration and recycling facilities, offering the potential for employment generation and skill development in Africa.
Introducing second-hand clothing as an alternative to mitigate textile waste is advantageous for providing affordable clothing. Textile recycling also includes reprocessing pre-consumer or post-consumer textile waste to produce new or non-textile goods. Some fabrics, such as T-shirts, are redesigned into polishing and cleaning materials. High-quality textiles, are repurposed into second-hand clothing.
Sofrip Textile Recycling company, with over 25 years of experience, is a Tunisian North African company and a leader in the textile recycling industry specializing in used clothing, shoes, wiping. Rewoven is a Cape Town-based company that diverts textile waste from landfill and ensures it gets recycled. They also sell materials and products made from recycled textile waste. FabricAid, with its head office in Lebanon and operations in Africa, is shaping a future where fashion empowers people, protects the planet, and transforms lives. Its circular model gives a new purpose to unwanted products and limits fashion’s socio-economic and environmental damage, predominantly by offering decent clothing at extremely affordable prices to marginalized communities through a dignified shopping experience.
Recycling is a significant employer in South Africa, Africa’s second-biggest economy. According to Plastic SA, another PRO in South Africa, 8,319 people are employed in recycling factories and 95,889 in the supply chain, translating to 51.9 tons per employee in 2023.
Recycling Sector as a Significant Employer and the Success Story
South Africa’s recycling rates are impressive, ranking 46.3% according to the RoundUp organization, second only to India. One of the key drivers of South Africa’s recycling rate is unemployment. Very little of the waste is separated at source (i.e., in the household), therefore the bulk of it is retrieved from the landfills, which is inefficient. “(Global) recycling rates vary by location, plastic type and application. Scientists estimate that only 9% of all plastic waste globally is recycled. Most plastic waste – a whopping 79% – ends up in landfills or in nature. Some 12% is incinerated,” according to a UNDP report in 2023.
Recycling is a significant employer in South Africa, Africa’s second-biggest economy. According to Plastic SA, another PRO in South Africa, 8,319 people are employed in recycling factories and 95,889 in the supply chain, translating to 51.9 tons per employee in 2023.
The Glass Company in South Africa represents one of South Africa’s recycling successes. TGRC is registered with the Department of Forestry, Fisheries, and the Environment (DFFE) as a PRO in the Extended Producer Responsibility Regulations. Since May 2021, TGRC’s membership grew from 18 to 90 producers needing an EPR scheme to facilitate their EPR obligations for glass packaging.
Industries members of TGRC are from the food and beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics and glass manufacturing industries. The most recent glass collection percentage in South Africa is 44.2% according to TGRC.
All bottles and jars manufactured in South Africa contain at least 40% recycled glass, versus less than a third in UK. TGRC now has more than 4,000 glass banks located nationally, making it easier for the public to recycle their glass. South Africa has one of the world’s most efficient returnable bottle systems spearheaded by the beer, wine and spirit manufacturers. Ardagh and Nampak Glass have invested significantly in developing high-level cullet processing plants, including advanced technology in optical sorting so that consumers do not need to sort glass into its three primary colours (brown, green or clear).
The Africa region has been a leader in some of the sustainability initiatives. Kenya was among the first countries in East Africa to sign the Clean Seas initiative in 2017 and ban on the importation, production, and use of plastic bags. According to Green Peace, out of 54 African states, 34 have either passed a law banning plastics and implemented it or have passed a law with the intention of implementation. Of those, 16 have totally banned plastic bags or have done so partially without yet introducing regulations to enforce the bans.
African Carbon Markets Initiative (ACMI) aims to unlock the region’s carbon credit potential. It aims to mobilize up to $100 billion carbon credits annually by 2050. Several African countries, including Ghana, Kenya and Nigeria have already expressed their intention to collaborate with the market.
The Global Plastic Credit Market – An Opportunity for Africa?
The Global Plastic Credit Market is another opportunity for Africa. Like the carbon credit market it emulates, the plastic credit market is a mechanism that drives investments into recycled plastic procurement, plastic collection projects, and plastic recycling projects. The “Plastic Standard” certifies and vets projects. According to the World Wide Fund for Nature, “conceptually, a plastic credit is a transferrable unit representing a specific quantity of plastic that has been collected and possibly recycled from the environment.” Carbon markets in Africa are growing steadily.
According to the Rockefeller Foundation, Africa aims to have 300M carbon credits annually by 2030. African Carbon Markets Initiative (ACMI) aims to unlock the region’s carbon credit potential. It aims to mobilize up to $100 billion carbon credits annually by 2050. Several African countries, including Ghana, Kenya and Nigeria have already expressed their intention to collaborate with the market. According to Catalyst Fund Africa has the ingredients to lead the global carbon markets. One of the ways is to leverage its vast natural endowments accounting for a quarter of the world’s biodiversity.
Africa has an active circular economy through the Africa Circular Economy Network, which, according to its website, aims to pioneer the circular economy in Africa and shape a future where circularity drives prosperity and Africa leads in sustainable development and environmental stewardship. The network spans more than 500 experts across 42 African countries. It has strategic partnerships with global entities like the World Economic Forum, World Bank, UNEP, and African Development Bank. It currently has 23 projects on the continent.
In conclusion, a statement from Removall Carbon sums up well the right approach to sustainability by pointing out what they call greenhushing, which refers to stopping environmental communication for fear of heightening scrutiny from customers, regulatory bodies and investors, and which they say is as bad as greenwashing, which is probably more well known. They recommend green leading, which is being a pioneer in environmental contribution where you share your initiatives and successes which would take us all into a new era of environmental action.
